Huber generates annually one huge assemblage – subject to multiple bottlings – of Gruner Veltliner from purchased fruit (primarily from the Weinviertel and his native Traisental) as well as a corresponding Zweigelt; and this year the generic Traisental bottling assembled from all of his own parcels that aren’t subjected to single-site bottling offered tart, rather dominantly malic refreshment, but with a 2010 Gruner Veltliner Obere Steigen – picked in mid-October from chalky conglomerate soil characteristic for the Traisental, and aged partly in tank and partly in acacia cask – we arrive at a wine of considerable distinction. It’s hard not to imagine the soil reflected in a chalky, crushed stone aura that begins already in the nose. Cucumber, crisp fresh greens and pepper cress inform a juicy and refreshing though quite substantial palate, while a saliva-inducing lick of salt adds satisfying stimulation to a protracted finish. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 3-5 years.
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