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Beltramo's Wines & Spirits
1540 El Camino Real
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Monday-Friday: 10:00am-7:30pm
Saturday: 9:30am-7:30pm
Sunday: 10:00am-6:30pm
(650) 325-2806
(888) 710-WINE(9463)
Fax (650) 323-8450
2009 Joseph et Philippe Roty Marsannay Rouge Champs St. Etienne
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Joseph Roty is not the easiest person to do business with. Indeed to do anything with. Both he and the rest of his family: Madame, sons Philippe and Pierre-Jean, seem to have an almost paranoiac distrust of outsiders, the local bureaucracy, and other people in general. They do not consort with their neighbours, play no part in Gevrey-Chambertin promotional activities, and are closed to almost all journalists, including myself.
Clive Coates, The World of Fine Wine 9, 2005
Since 1710 the family have been based in Gevrey. The current 'reputation' of Domaine Joseph Roty was down to Joseph himself, not just the comments of Remington and Clive, but also the quality of domaine's highly sought-after wines, wines mainly produced from old and in some cases some very, very old vines , très vieilles vignes if you prefer!
Joseph started the core of today's domaine in the late 1960s with vines that came from his grandfather, vines that included Mazy (they spell like Rousseau), Griotte and Charmes-Chambertin grand crus.
Joseph was lost to this world in 2008, and although widow Roty still works behind the scenes, it is the sons of Joseph , Philippe and Pierre-Jean , the 11th generation at this family domaine that do the heavy stuff while a 12th generation are playing in the yard. Philippe had anyway being working progressively more with his father since about 1990 , there is very little that has been changed.
Today there are a couple of labels, the label of Domaine Joseph Roty is augmented with the label of Domaine Philippe Roty who has added some more Marsannay to the Gevrey. Whilst the wineries (cuveries) are completely separate , by law , they are actually separated only by the main road through the village. Vinification philosophy and vineyard maintenance are identical , as are the commercial/family contacts.
Starting with the vines, it is possible that only Domaine Fourrier can compete on an 'average' age basis in Gevrey; Roty's vine average more than 60 years of age, though for ultimate age, Roty take the trophy with their Charmes-Chambertin 'Très Vieilles Vignes' , and très they are; over 60% of their plot were planted in 1881. These are some of the oldest vines in the whole Côte d'Or, the first 'porte-greffes' (grafted vines) the family planted to try and combat the phylloxera louse. Madame Roty notes that in those days vines were not typically planted in rows, so the 60% that survive do so only because it was possible to plough between them, vines 'in the way' were discarded. Despite the average being so old, the domaine have no problem achieving 25-30 hl/ha.
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