Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 2005
95 points The Wine Advocate:2005 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese A.P. #10 – originating, as usual with this A.P. #, in deeper soils with more fine particulate slate than the #6 – enters a realm where almost custardy, lush richness of texture coexists with fresh berry, pit fruit, and citrus juiciness – in this instance above all cassis, white peach and pink grapefruit – and clarion transparency. At the same time, an incredible lightness of touch to the palate and wafting delicacy set this wine up for a soaring finish of remarkable length and purity of fruit. Certainly botrytis was here, but it got away, leaving only the most subtle and noble of traces in the sheer extra measure of honeyed concentration to the fruit. Lemon cream, pink grapefruit, cassis, honey, and white peach preserve set the tone here from the nose to the finish. “To combine this richness and botrytis with elegance and finesse is the beauty of 2005,” remarks Oliver Haag, and it is hard to offer a better summation of this particular Auslese, one I would want to follow for another quarter century or more (if I thought I would hold up half as well as the wine!). David Schildknecht